Electrical help. Herpderp - Cincy Street Scene
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:51 AM   #1
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Electrical help. Herpderp
So I'll be honest, don't know that much about electrical issues.

Sometimes (~50-70%time; cold usually but not necessarily, started about a week ago, no changes) the car will have power; acc, radio, amplifier, etc. until I turn the key to start and as soon as the starter solenoid clicks the entire car goes dead (lost trip comp, odo, all electrical, etc.) and I have no power. I open the hood, wiggle the battery, interior lights come back on, car starts just fine and runs for-ev-vvvvvver. Not a loose connection AFAIK. I'll be checking grounds and relays tomorrow.


I know it's something simple like not having an LSx, using AMSoil, or being 4X4 status, but i'd rather get it taken care of before I drive to SC. Shine your light, fuckmooks. Or just fill this thread with catchphrases, whatever. BTW I do not use AMS oil. M1 Usually
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:16 AM   #2
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Is this a '52 Chevy we are fucking with?

How about a Honda?

You have a bad/loose connection, I'm betting on the ground cable on your VW.

Has it caught fire yet? Why not? BMW?
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:07 AM   #3
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Its a connection issue. Clean and seal the battery terminals first.
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:03 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Mista Bone View Post
Is this a '52 Chevy we are fucking with?

How about a Honda?

You have a bad/loose connection, I'm betting on the ground cable on your VW.

Has it caught fire yet? Why not? BMW?
rattles like a 52 chevy. it has not caught fire... yet

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Its a connection issue. Clean and seal the battery terminals first.
copy copy. but why only when the starter goes to pull current does it happen?



btw, i do not remember making this thread hahahah

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Old 02-28-2012, 03:29 PM   #5
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The connection is there, but not good enough to support that kind of draw in current?

Complete guess here...I'm electrically retarded for the most part.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:32 PM   #6
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Where ever the weak link is its acting like a fuse. When the high current load is applied it heats the surface of the poor connection and when stuff changes temp it moves. Losing said connection.

GM side post setups are bad for this. they seem fine untill the starter hits. Go wiggle shit and its fine again.

Scrub the terminals with wire brush or one of those terminal cleaning cones.. grab some battery sealer and tighten shit back up.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:32 PM   #7
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The connection is there, but not good enough to support that kind of draw in current?

Complete guess here...I'm electrically retarded for the most part.

i thought with electricity, a connection is a connection. then again, i know nothing about electrical.

problem is, why is it killing the entire car? there's some hokey fuse/relay looking thing on the positive cable.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kisor View Post
Where ever the weak link is its acting like a fuse. When the high current load is applied it heats the surface of the poor connection and when stuff changes temp it moves. Losing said connection.

GM side post setups are bad for this. they seem fine untill the starter hits. Go wiggle shit and its fine again.

Scrub the terminals with wire brush or one of those terminal cleaning cones.. grab some battery sealer and tighten shit back up.
^That's what I was getting at.

In a much more ignorant manner.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kisor View Post
Where ever the weak link is its acting like a fuse. When the high current load is applied it heats the surface of the poor connection and when stuff changes temp it moves. Losing said connection.

GM side post setups are bad for this. they seem fine untill the starter hits. Go wiggle shit and its fine again.

Scrub the terminals with wire brush or one of those terminal cleaning cones.. grab some battery sealer and tighten shit back up.
gonna do that right now. thanks a million, dude! i was worried i'd have to pay you to drive up to branch hill and fix this shit. hope i didn't speak too soon
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:50 PM   #10
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:06 PM   #11
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I'm completely retarded for the most part.
Edited for accuracy....
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:29 PM   #12
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:04 AM   #13
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when the connection "opens" under high load, or a higher resistance the voltage drop across the connection drops considerably. Honda's are known for the frame to tranny ground strap rotting away with age, like 20 years old, to the point the ground becomes a huge resistor.

The current will then seek next least point of resistance, the valve cover to front core support ground. In some cases even melting it.
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mista Bone View Post
when the connection "opens" under high load, or a higher resistance the voltage drop across the connection drops considerably. Honda's are known for the frame to tranny ground strap rotting away with age, like 20 years old, to the point the ground becomes a huge resistor.

The current will then seek next least point of resistance, the valve cover to front core support ground. In some cases even melting it.

oh shit!


i tightened the fuck out of the cables and haven't had the problem since. user error haha. im still confused as to why they whole car goes dark. in-line protection?
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:28 PM   #15
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No the connection at the battery terminal actually isn't touching. Its clamped on but corrosion or a burnt surface is separating the two pieces.
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:04 PM   #16
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I'd say use some sandpaper or steel wool to clean up the terminals and cables.

Maybe throw a corrosion resistant spray on it after you do that...?
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Old 03-01-2012, 01:40 AM   #17
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I'd say use some sandpaper or steel wool to clean up the terminals and cables.

Maybe throw a corrosion resistant spray on it after you do that...?
not a bad idea at all.


on the plus side, my trip computer thinks the car is averaging 26mpg, which is fucking phenomenal
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