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03-07-2011, 03:06 PM
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#1
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#4
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Eastside
Age: 38
Posts: 5,580
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Who is good with Automotive wiring?
Hoping to have the car back soon and all that is left to be done is the wiring. So far I know of one option, but he hasn't seen the car and is quite busy right now, so would like to keep my options open in case that doesn't work out.
To start, I do not have the time to do this and I don't do wiring anyway. I've done some very small scale wiring of gauges, etc in the past, but just don't have the time to wire up everything that needs to be done at this time.
Here is a list of things that will need wired:
-Finish up the battery relocation
-Electric water pump
-Contour electric fan to the ECU so the fan is controlled by the ECU (would also be sweet if this could be done with the water pump but have no idea if that's possible)
-AEM wideband ,autometer nexus oil and water gauges using the 6401 controller
-GM 1 Bar Map sensor into ECU
-AEM EPM into ECU
-LQ9 Coilpacks into ECU
I am using an AEM 30-1400 P&P ECU in the car.
I'd like to find someone who is neat and detailed. I'd like to find someone who is also good with researching / familiar with the AEM is I'd like it to be able to control several of these "extra"s similar to how the factory ECU did.
Let me know if you need any more info, pics, or whatever. Thanks.
If worse comes to worse, I've seriously considered having the car shipped down to Kurgan to have him wire up the car and to put a base tune on the car, but I'd like to keep it local if at all possible.
__________________
2013 Cruze Eco 1.4T 6MT
1993 Mustang
2007 Yamaha R1
Last edited by jfisher; 03-07-2011 at 03:07 PM..
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03-08-2011, 01:57 PM
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#2
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#4
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Eastside
Age: 38
Posts: 5,580
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Dang, nothin'?
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03-08-2011, 02:38 PM
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#3
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4cyl & fart can
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 2,303
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Just call SpeedWire and bust out the CC.
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03-08-2011, 03:14 PM
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#4
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#4
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Eastside
Age: 38
Posts: 5,580
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Link?
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03-08-2011, 03:16 PM
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#5
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4cyl & fart can
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 2,303
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03-08-2011, 05:29 PM
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#6
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White Trash Mod
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bright, IN
Posts: 8,943
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I can do it but I would havebto do it here and it wouldn't be as fancy as the links above. I use solder and heat shrink, never use crimp connectors. I have wired many ECUs, including fast, accel and stock...never aem but I am good at schematics... That's what I do for a living lol. Probably would have to give me at least a week bc I work on it after hours.
You can look at the wiring on my current cara, although its all mostly stock except for where I cut the factory ecu harness and installed my accel dfi.
Last edited by WhiteT; 03-08-2011 at 05:31 PM..
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03-08-2011, 05:33 PM
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#7
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White Trash Mod
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bright, IN
Posts: 8,943
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As far as the tuning...well I can probably get it started if you have the software for my laptop. I've never tuned a 5.0 but many a Buick v6:)
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03-08-2011, 07:35 PM
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#8
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CSS regular
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 642
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When doing wiring make sure you use Raychem DR-25 for all the wiring if you want to only do the job one time for the life of the car.
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03-09-2011, 08:26 AM
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#9
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Someone took my Swingline
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: In a van, down by the river
Age: 57
Posts: 2,098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteT
I can do it but I would havebto do it here and it wouldn't be as fancy as the links above. I use solder and heat shrink, never use crimp connectors.
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Thats the only way to do it!!!!! 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteT
I have wired many ECUs, including fast, accel and stock...never aem but I am good at schematics... That's what I do for a living lol. Probably would have to give me at least a week bc I work on it after hours.
You can look at the wiring on my current cara, although its all mostly stock except for where I cut the factory ecu harness and installed my accel dfi.
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The hardest part is having all the correct wire, ie. gauge, strand count ect. I figured you would have a good selection for that
__________________
"While you are working on making something idiot proof someone else is working on making a better idiot"
1986 Trans Am - just for cruising and having fun
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03-09-2011, 10:31 AM
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#10
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CSS regular
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Colerain
Posts: 804
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I'll never understand why people are so hell bent on not using crimp connectors. For every problem you show me with a crimp connector, I can show you an issue with a solder connection. Its not the connection, its how its performed. I've been using crimp connectors for over 10 years and never once had one come apart or cause an issue with resistance or corrosion. Heat shrink and a butt connector can be pulled apart easier than a soldered connection, yes. If you have a 200lb man behind your dash pulling wires apart then you've got bigger issues than the connection he's fucking with. A wire should never see any tension to begin with. Why does it matter how hard they are to pull apart? It doesn't, assuming the connection is made using the proper tools.
WhiteT.... what do you do for a living? Just wondering since I'm down over the hill. Never know when you need to extend your "network" of friends....
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03-09-2011, 12:50 PM
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#11
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Someone took my Swingline
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: In a van, down by the river
Age: 57
Posts: 2,098
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Over long runs, especially with power, crimp connections can and will cause voltage drops. For most little accessories a crimp connection is just fine but for most things, unless you are dealing with moisture resistant Bosch style connections, solder connections are the best way to go instead of a butt spliced crimp connection.
I deal with electronics all the time and I've seen soe pretty picky ignitions systems too and I'm one that I will go over kill on my wiring rather than just enough.
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03-09-2011, 01:47 PM
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#12
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White Trash Mod
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bright, IN
Posts: 8,943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marakka
I'll never understand why people are so hell bent on not using crimp connectors. For every problem you show me with a crimp connector, I can show you an issue with a solder connection. Its not the connection, its how its performed. I've been using crimp connectors for over 10 years and never once had one come apart or cause an issue with resistance or corrosion. Heat shrink and a butt connector can be pulled apart easier than a soldered connection, yes. If you have a 200lb man behind your dash pulling wires apart then you've got bigger issues than the connection he's fucking with. A wire should never see any tension to begin with. Why does it matter how hard they are to pull apart? It doesn't, assuming the connection is made using the proper tools.
WhiteT.... what do you do for a living? Just wondering since I'm down over the hill. Never know when you need to extend your "network" of friends....
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I'm a low voltage electrician by trade. I deal with little wires all day long lol.
I don't like crimps on automotive stuff from past experiences. Also if youbhave a bundle of splices, crimp connectors become very bulky compared to a nice soldered splice with heat shrink
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03-09-2011, 08:29 PM
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#13
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CSS regular
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Colerain
Posts: 804
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I feel ya on the picky systems that want to see resistances within a tenth and stuff. Thats when you break out the iron. I've seen installers (audio) who try to sell themselves on the fact that they solder everything.
Long runs are single wires, no reason to crimp something in a long run. And a bundle of wires only occurs behind the dash (usually) and even then its easy enough to make that disappear into nooks and cranny's.
How does low voltage work as compared to regular stuff? I'm not sure I understand what you do.
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03-09-2011, 09:51 PM
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#14
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White Trash Mod
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bright, IN
Posts: 8,943
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Low voltage is data/communication/audio/video/etc. That's what I do.
I guess its preference. I will not use butt connectors. I think butt splices are a half ass way of permanently splicing an automotive connection. You don't see oems using them. You see them solder splices together, especially grounds and voltage reference wires. Resistence is very important when dealing with efi. A tenth of a volt could mean a 5 degree error from a sensor to the ecu. That 5 degrees could be the difference of the ecu pulling or adding a degree of timing which could he the difference between blowing the head off a car or keeping it together.
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