My Turdbo build progress a go...? - Page 19

jdredd · 06-30-2013, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9cobra4

I've never seen a high HP GTP launch at WOT before. Seems they always roll about 70% throttle to about the 60' mark and roll into it. I know I had to do that with my 13 second GTP on BFG DR's, just didn't have to wait nearly as long to go WOT.

Huge congrats on the 10 second pass. I bought another GTP to play with. Just got the wrong one. Lol

Idea is to lunch under boost, which will be ~40% throttle, and be WOT with in the under a second after letting off the brake.
Not sure if will happen at Edgewater, but if make it to Norwalk, goals is low 1.6x to high 1.5x 60 foots. And some
snapped axles probably along with that.

And Thanks.. Its been alot of work and been fun. What do you mean go wrong one?

jdredd · 06-30-2013, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbcxtreme

Why not install a vacuum pump and have it wired to turn on with the brake switch?

We do have an electric vacuum pump, which kicks in with a hobbs switch
at just above 0 psi. Read where someone had a 2nd pump to try and help
but didn't do to much for them. We just have a shitty GM brake system. Have
to use the smaller brake booster, which probably doesn't help much either
but were not the only ones to run into this. Line lock or trans brake would
be the best route, but this will work for now I think. If works, at least
its "free" just gotta remember to N Rev it and put it back into gear and
not forget and look like a dumbass

The trick ZZP told us, was using a Momentary switch with the IAT sensor.
With it pressed in, it cuts the IAT signal, which will read as -49* .
In the IAT Timing Table, you set it so it drops timing down to 0 or even
negative. Then when you launch you let off the button which will bring
your timing back up.

With our method, there is no switch, timing drops like desired, and we get
to dump fuel to kick the turbo in the ass. Banking on this to actually
launch with some authority.

9cobra4 · 07-01-2013, 03:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdredd

Idea is to lunch under boost, which will be ~40% throttle, and be WOT with in the under a second after letting off the brake.
Not sure if will happen at Edgewater, but if make it to Norwalk, goals is low 1.6x to high 1.5x 60 foots. And some
snapped axles probably along with that.

And Thanks.. Its been alot of work and been fun. What do you mean go wrong one?

1.5X 60's would be the shit with Grand Prix. And I meant I bought a G6 GTP instead of a GP lol had to have a manual.

sbcxtreme · 07-01-2013, 06:49 AM

If you T a vacuum pump into the brake booster line then you dont have to put it in neutral for more vacuum.

I would push through my brakes at about 5 psi. I installed a $25 vacuum pump and now the brakes hold until around 13psi. Your brake booster line should have a check valve, so when the pump turns on it is putting a higher vacuum on the brake booster, but not the rest of the system

**WhiteT** · 07-01-2013, 07:45 AM

Is it possible to switch to manual brakes? That would be ideal. Also, why not get an adjustable porpotioning valve for the rear brakes?

jdredd · 07-01-2013, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteT

Is it possible to switch to manual brakes? That would be ideal. Also, why not get an adjustable porpotioning valve for the rear brakes?

Already removed the ABS system and switched to non abs system.

Cheaper to just remove the rear brakes. They are totally useless anyways.
They are so dinky and tiny.

Only need the ebrake setup part. If going to turn the rears down to the
point they are virtually disabled, then might as well remove them all together.

Save weight and remove the the locking up of the rear :)

**WhiteT** · 07-01-2013, 10:31 AM

What about manual brakes instead if vacuum assisted brakes.

jdredd · 07-02-2013, 12:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteT

What about manual brakes instead if vacuum assisted brakes.

Dunno.. might be more work then desired :) haven't really looked in to it.

I really think the fronts will grip fine, once rears are totally removed. With
them gone, then that pressure/work that was needed to hold the rears
is now gone, and hope that extra pressure now is applied to the fronts. ?
I am not a brake master (nor a mechanic or anything) so i am just guessing :)

BUT it seems to have worked for quite a few others like this, including
GMR so may work out.

jdredd · 07-29-2013, 12:07 AM

Car is back to life

New fuel pump installed (actually sounds a bit better maybe vs prev one)
Updated fuel lines to have nice smooth bends.
Heat wrap sleeve around fuel lines. Haven't done feed side, but may not bother.
Small heat blanket on down pipe by master cylinder. Keep a little bit of heat way.
Magnafuel Regulator.
Removed check valve.
Ice can hooked up. It "works" but hard to tell how much yet. Still feel its on small side.

We did drive it around for a few miles and brought it back to garage and tank wasn't
hot. Obviously all the ice melted and was just barely luke warm water.

Maybe back to track friday.. and see how the anti-lag launching does. Maybe
finally get a respectable 60 foot. Will have different slicks on too.

Hopefully knock a few tenths off with a good launch without upping boost at all.

jdredd · 08-03-2013, 01:41 AM

Another good night with good results.

9 total runs. PRJ came down and played with the tune while we doinked around with
the M&H slicks and launching. We were in the 10.8-10.9's for a few runs.
Then our last three runs we finally got it nailed. Boost is not hitting our
target, which I set for 20psi, but max it hit for the night was 19.1psi which
was on the best run. For the other two good runs was 18.7 and 18.8.
Car still wants to shut off after the burnout almost every time. Still not
sure exactly what that is all about yet.

Also the fuel cooler actually works. Last time out the fuel cell was getting
very hot to the touch. Now the e85 was sitting around 80-85* temps after
runs. MUCH cooler then before. Since we are cooling the fuel coming into
the cell to keep the pump happy, I think this will work well now that its
actually been tested.

We are launching at ~5-6psi and was gripping pretty good. Maybe a bit of spin but
its pretty crazy.

Best part as always, car drove up on trailer, and no issues discovered yet.

Bad news is we had no video cameras / gopro's with us. Forgot them.
I got 1 crappy video with my phone that I may post up. Can't see the time
but was the 10.54 run.

I think we are doing pretty good considering car is probably ~3000 lbs with no one in it.

I think with playing around more with the tire pressure and launching, 1.5x 60 foots should be pretty doable.

Mista Bone · 08-03-2013, 02:45 AM

NICE!

What have you done to the rear suspension to help with the squatting?

Same thing with the nose coming up.

I know ONE thing you can do to really cut the 60's down, same thing all the fast FWD Honda's did to knock their 60's down.

jdredd · 08-03-2013, 02:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mista Bone

NICE!

What have you done to the rear suspension to help with the squatting?

Same thing with the nose coming up.

I know ONE thing you can do to really cut the 60's down, same thing all the fast FWD Honda's did to knock their 60's down.

We do the "cable mod" http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=3422633

Old trick thats been around for years.

For the front, Sean made the coil overs to drop it as low as possible
with the setup.

Mista Bone · 08-03-2013, 03:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdredd

I just like buying crap apparently... They look nice at least compared to factory ones.. and save 6 pounds in weight. Hopefully wont flex as much as it did before.

Sphericals in the front?

Now if you just had some seat belts to limit the rise in the nose :)

Mista Bone · 08-03-2013, 03:56 AM

That cable mod SUCKS and is killing your traction. The rear needs to squat some but in a controlled manner.

Too stiff with the cable and it will unload the front tires about 5 feet off the line. I tried the rubber spring spacers on the back of my old EG HB, 6 per side which was too stiff, lost ..15-.2 on my 60's. When I swapped to Eibach springs, I couldn't use the inserts anymore anyways.

The random LUCK cured the squat issue. I replaced the upper camber link with an adjustable unit that had poly bushings in both ends.

They weren't greased and squeaked like hell when it got below 50 degrees. But the rear squatted perfectly for a 1.81 60' with 175 whp on 20x8x14 MT's at 12 psi.

http://s107.photobucket.com/user/bon...rtDay.mp4.html

I never posted that LUCKY mod about my setup on here, but it worked!!!!

Low 1.9x on either rear springs, 2.05 with the rubber spacers, 1.816 with the upper camber links.

Goat P for the old slicks.

http://www.fmskarting.com/prep.htm#Goatp

Also, is Milzy still fucking things up? LOL!

I hate my work hours, I miss the track!

Mista Bone · 08-03-2013, 04:04 AM

Talking with a buddy who owns Kingpin Machine

http://kingpinmachine.com/

his front spherical suspension setup is what really help the Honda guys.

Quote:

Probably. Got heim joints at one inner pivot but sphericals at the other end would be nice. Let that suspension work.

jdredd · 08-03-2013, 12:51 PM

The cable mod works for our crowd pretty well. Being used for
so many years. Its cheap and it does work. I think running down
in the low 1.6x 60 foots is pretty good? Considering our first time
out with these slicks. 1.5x's should just be around the corner.
We were still playing with pressure. It think we were at 12.5-13psi.

Considering the car is 3000+ without driver I am guessing a
bit more weight the small honda hatchs to drag down the track.

We don't have the front nose lift anymore with the current coil over
setup in front Sean made.

I am not sure if you watched videos from this year, but its not the rocking
boat anymore like it was last year when we ran it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVqqjC-jXFw

A few outside views.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnBeW...ature=youtu.be

^^ Only video I got from last night..

These are the control arms, seem to help. The old factory ones
had a lot of flex in them.

http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...for-WBody.aspx

I haven't talked to Milzy in years, but I did visit his site, and looks alive.

Oh and call off one night and come down and hang :)

jdredd · 08-19-2013, 12:34 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsYGmV7dIEM

Past Fridays runs ... We got a new PB, not by much tho. Running
into some slight set backs..

With a 7psi spring, we couldn't seem to get over 18psi
with the boost controller? .. So we up'd it to a 10psi spring
and can hit 21-22 psi now.

Problem is now, we have extra boost down low. Which is
making launching a lot harder. We were 1 - 1.5 tenths off on the 60 foot
from previous time out.

Picked up 2+ mph, but not even a half a tenth gained with the cruddy
60 foots.

Will be dropping the heavy semi-full exhaust next time out for a shorty
dump race pipe. And adjusting the controller to pretty much limit boost
to just the wastegate below 5200rpm.

Other then that, car ran fine. No hickups. Ended up scaling MAF down 4% more
to allow for more boost, and cranking up fuel pressure up to a base of 65 psi, and then
adjusting the pcm for these changes. Now to just get the power to the ground again
and knock a few more tenths off :)