Fuel in oil

cincySVT · 07-25-2013, 01:09 PM

So I bought a car to dail y because the Jeep was killing me in gas. 1989 e30. About a week after buying it I have these issues:

-won't turn over. Takes about 5 minutes of constant trying before it catches and stay running. Even then it runs extremely rough.
-under full throttle the car will "buck" similar to fuel cut on a boosted car.
-noticed the slight oil plan gasket leak is now and puddle. Checked the oil and its water thin almost and smells of gas.

Of course this could mean bad rings, but when the car runs after it warms it rips, no issues minus the occasional "buck." I was leaning towards a bad fpr or a leaky injector. The filter and pump are supposedly newer. How would I check the fpr and or injectors? I've never check fuel pressure before. Thanks for any help.

badcoupe · 07-25-2013, 09:00 PM

Bad injector or regulator coolant temp sensor could also make it excessively rich as well

cincySVT · 07-25-2013, 09:05 PM

Would that allow fuel and oil to mix though? I replaced the fpr, no change.

Carbon01GT · 07-25-2013, 11:32 PM

Hopefully the gasoline additive in your oil makes it polish your shit.

SloRice · 07-26-2013, 12:24 AM

If an injector is stuck open, it will wash down a cylinder and you will get gas in the oil. Pull the plugs and see if 1 is wet maybe??

SloRice · 07-26-2013, 12:26 AM

I would also get the oil changed ASAP before the oil/gas damages the engine.

cincySVT · 07-26-2013, 07:30 AM

Ok I will pull the plugs tonight. Can someone give me the procedure to checking fp of the pump. Despite it being newer, per the po, I better eliminate that. Should I just put a "t" on the line that goes into the fpr or should I go back towards the rear by the fuel filter?

SloRice · 07-26-2013, 10:04 AM

yea, you just want to T in a line up by the fuel rail and put the gauge there. If you put in a new FPR and there is no change, I doubt its a pressure issue.

cincySVT · 07-26-2013, 06:55 PM

Yeah zero change starting wise. Maybe injectors? I guess I can swap them, they are pretty cheap. Or get those bench tested?

SloRice · 07-26-2013, 07:31 PM

Did you pull the plugs yet?

Kisor · 07-26-2013, 08:29 PM

Sounds like coolant temp sensor or mass air issue

Testing for CTS:

Test resistance of sensor - should be 2000-2500 ohms at 7 degrees F., 275-325 ohms at full engine operating temperature. The reference voltage to the sensor should be 5 V and the ground should show 0 V. If reference voltage is significantly higher or lower, look for high resistance connection or shorting to power or ground in the wire harness, especially at connector C191, 8-pin connector under the intake manifold.

For Maf. and other :

1. Recommend checking for full system voltage from engine control module relay. This voltage should be available at all of the fuel injectors, the center pin on the idle control valve connector, the evaporative purge solenoid and at pins 36 and 37 of the engine control module.

2. Verify airflow meter is working properly by checking pin 3 at airflow meter for reference voltage, pin 2 for varying voltage depending on load/door movement, variable voltage at pin 1 depending on air temperature and good ground at pin 4.

3. Check coolant temp sensor for variable voltage/resistance depending on engine temperature.

4. If external sensors are working properly, internal failures of engine control module can be tested by tapping on control module case with a rubber mallet and see if vehicle starts running better.

5. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) should have continuity to ground at pin 52 of engine control module with throttle closed. Pin 1 of TPS connects to pin 2, ground, when closed throttle. Pin 3 connects to ground at wide open throttle.

6. Crankshaft sensors should provide a smooth sine wave pattern on an oscilloscope.

cincySVT · 07-26-2013, 11:14 PM

Funny you say that kisor. Did stomp test to pull the codes from the dme and boom coolant temp sensor. Swapping it in the morning along with pulling the plugs. See how that goes lol.