2006 Mazdaspeed 6 brake pads - Page 2

coolnick · 07-05-2012, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LittleRed

wierd...mine came right out

I have broken one of those tools before as well, but the vice grip trick has always worked for me.

stang99gtv8 · 07-05-2012, 01:40 PM

i tried vice grips, impact tool, hitting with a hammer, using a huge as screw driver, and putting a phillips tip on a ratchet and twisting with large pipe on it for leverage, and a screw extractor. Absolutely nothing worked to get it off but drilling it off. None of my Ford's have used those screws, guess it's common on other ones.

LittleRed · 07-05-2012, 01:40 PM

i always soak them then go get a beer and watch tv then come back and try lol

LittleRed · 07-05-2012, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stang99gtv8

i tried vice grips, impact tool, hitting with a hammer, using a huge as screw driver, and putting a phillips tip on a ratchet and twisting with large pipe on it for leverage, and a screw extractor. Absolutely nothing worked to get it off but drilling it off. None of my Ford's have used those screws, guess it's common on other ones.

same as ford hubs

i guess you superman did the last brake job

leetfade · 07-05-2012, 01:48 PM

Yeah PB Blaster is a wonderful thing. Also, if you get too deep of a bit (more pointy tip) it won't work well at all. I just did brakes on a Civic this weekend. What seemed to be the proper sized bit didn't work at all. I went to a larger bit that's thicker on the end and they came right off.

Also, don't bother with a dead blow (just in case you were). Use a man hammer or they won't budge.

Doesn't happen often, but I agree with Coolnick..

I am an HPS fan as well.

stang99gtv8 · 07-05-2012, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LittleRed

same as ford hubs

i guess you superman did the last brake job

It was the first time they were changed from factory, so the last person to put on the rotors was an assembly line.

I've never done hubs on any of my cars, but the rotors I know for sure didn't extra bolts to secure them in place.

Learn something new each time though I'll say. Next time I'll try a much larger bit and see what happens.

coolnick · 07-05-2012, 02:46 PM

Yeah proper bit is the key. The bit should be secure in the slots with absolutely no wiggle whatsoever. I can't remember the nomenclature, but I believe #2 is the common phillips head bit, the rotor screws use the next size up (#1 I think).

And I use a short handled 2.5 lb sledge hammer to motivate them.

leetfade · 07-05-2012, 02:59 PM

Correct that #2 is the common bit size and the size up is what I used as well (I thought #1 was the smaller size but am not 100% sure).. with a mini sledge. ;-)

Just get it in there tight, turn the handle then smack the end.

Widebody · 07-05-2012, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stang99gtv8

Learn something new each time though I'll say. Next time I'll try a much larger bit and see what happens.

Don't put the screws back in.

coolnick · 07-05-2012, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Widebody

Don't put the screws back in.

I use anti seize and they come right out.

LittleRed · 07-06-2012, 01:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coolnick

I use anti seize and they come right out.

^^what he said

eagle 5 · 08-03-2012, 01:54 PM

Little late probably but those screws holding the rotor on I drilled one side out and the other side just came right off. Also, I bought my pads and rotors from NAPA and had no problem. They had delivered there from another store but I had the parts the next day. Everything fit fine. Also those two bolts with the allen heads, I just used a set of allen heads i had. I have the ones with the rounded head on one end and that seemed to help get them out easier.

Rears I just used a pair of needle noes pliers and turned the piston back in. Super easy. And my car has 144,000 miles on it so it was the first time doing the rear pads, 2nd time doing the front brake pads (and they really didnt need it) and first time doing front rotors.