I have been searching for the right cam. I have been looking at ts ms3 or 4 and the vrx5 or 3. Anyways, I found this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-Performance-cam-HOT-CAM-fresh-copy_W0QQitemZ180461371826QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2a045601b2 and I was wondering what you guys thought. let me know if you think its a good deal or you would "steer clear".

I'd probably learn how to drive it first.

^^^^ Yeah, that.


It all depends on what you want to do. You can't go wrong with an MS3 or MS4.


But steer the fuck away from that dumbass hot cam. If you're gonna go through the trouble to put a cam in, put a real cam in there.

Also, bank on buying good valvesprings (PRC, Patriot Gold, Manley, etc.), hardened pushrods, an LS6 Oil pump, and a new timing chain (LS2 or Rollmaster IMHO). Don't just think it's a $300 job and that's it.

Yeah, I will do that but I was kind of looking for a little more advice toward the cam.

^^^^ Yeah, that.


It all depends on what you want to do. You can't go wrong with an MS3 or MS4.


But steer the fuck away from that dumbass hot cam. If you're gonna go through the trouble to put a cam in, put a real cam in there.

Also, bank on buying good valvesprings (PRC, Patriot Gold, Manley, etc.), hardened pushrods, an LS6 Oil pump, and a new timing chain (LS2 or Rollmaster IMHO). Don't just think it's a $300 job and that's it.

I know, I was planning on it costing anywhere from 1k to 1300. I was also planning on doing an under drive pulley while I have it off. I was also planning on a double roller chain and an slp ported oil pump.

I know, I was planning on it costing anywhere from 1k to 1300. I was also planning on doing an under drive pulley while I have it off. I was also planning on a double roller chain and an slp ported oil pump.

I have my own thoughts on that UDP. But if that's where you want to spend your money, go for it.

I'd much rather put that money towards headers if you ask me.

And you're in the right ballparkl as far as price. If you do it smart, you can do it all for a thousand, and have money left over for tuning.

I would fly cut with anything ms3 or bigger. I loved my ms3 but it likes rmps and lacks a bit down low but makes great power up top. Same for the ms4. Lots like the g5x3 its specs are about the same as the ms3. I think u should look into the tsunami from tsp it prob gives you a lil port ptv clearance than the ms3 and offers a bit more down low. My buddy put down 400rwhp and around 390 rwtq with that cam. Or pay 25 dollars for pat g to spec u a cam to meet ur goals on ls1tech

I have herd that if you go ms3 with 3.73s, it makes up for the lack of low end torque. However, if I could avoid doing gears right now that would be ideal. I haven't looked into the g5x3. It just seems like there are so many cam manufactures out there. I also was thinking about doing the 243 heads however I was unsure if you decide do to those, I would assume I would need new pushrods and I don't know if my stock intake manifold will work and if I go ahead and get headers, I assume they are different for the different heads.

I wouldn't want a ms3 with anything less than 4.10s personally and u will need new pushrods reguardless. Also headers should be the first thing u do. Your intake will be fine with any cathedral port heads. 243s would work well but I would buy them ported or have them ported to make it worth ur time. And headers are the same for all the heads

I know that I will need pushrods regardless but I was actually talking about length. Also, standard rockers will due for the time being correct?

I have herd that if you go ms3 with 3.73s, it makes up for the lack of low end torque. However, if I could avoid doing gears right now that would be ideal. I haven't looked into the g5x3. It just seems like there are so many cam manufactures out there. I also was thinking about doing the 243 heads however I was unsure if you decide do to those, I would assume I would need new pushrods and I don't know if my stock intake manifold will work and if I go ahead and get headers, I assume they are different for the different heads.
You have a ls6 intake manifold so you should be ok there. If you wanted to step up to a fast you would probably benefit from it, but thats a lot of money. And you will need headers otherwise you'll be choking the motor and robbing it of power for sure.
And i'm not sure what you mean by if you get headers they are different for different heads?
And i had a ms4 in my car and it ran hard up top, but it really did leave a lot of be desired down low, gears would have helped for sure.

Yes people run stock rockers in some very high hp cars they are fine. If u do heads I would do new lifters too

tator what I was wasn't sure about was if I do change the heads, does the bolt pattern or exhaust port change from one head to another i.e. ls1 vs ls2. That question was answered though. However I am still wondering will the stock pushrod length work with different heads?

It all depends on the heads and what u have done to them. What does it matter u need new hardened ones anyway?

Look into texas speeds packages they will get u set up with the right shit

well it matters because I am trying to come up with the logical steps of doing stuff. I am not rich so I am not going to be able to do it all at once. I was thinking Cam, then headers, then heads. But if the rods are different, I don't want to waste my money on hardened 7.4's. I will in that case do the heads first.

We can't just guess and tell u what ur pushrod length will be and sounds like u need to just do a cam only set up first push rods are 100 bucks. Call tsp they will get u set up

dude are you dumb???? why the fuck would you run a bigger cam with stock exhaust manis? should be headers,cam,heads,tune

well it matters because I am trying to come up with the logical steps of doing stuff. I am not rich so I am not going to be able to do it all at once. I was thinking Cam, then headers, then heads. But if the rods are different, I don't want to waste my money on hardened 7.4's. I will in that case do the heads first.

Oh ok i get what you were asking. Yeah, the heads wont effect the header situation.

And yes the pushrod size can change depending on heads. So the best course of action is do this. If you know for a fact you want to do heads then do this order. 1) Choose Cam AND heads...2)Choose needed accessories, ex..pushrods ( the pushrod size would be different if you were going with a ms4 with stock heads vs ms4 with worked aftermarket heads.)

So choose your heads/cam package first, then get the correct size pushrods because the heads probably will change the size. If you call texas speed and tell them the cam and heads you want, even if the heads are worked, they will be able to tell you the needed pushrod lenth.

dude are you dumb???? why the fuck would you run a bigger cam with stock exhaust manis? should be headers,cam,heads,tune

No, I am not dumb. I am just asking you guys first before I go ahead and do things like someone who is dumb. I am just trying to get a plan of action together and the only post you can make is one containing ridicule. I am just trying to get everyone's opinion. And, because I am not doing everything at once, your plan of action would not work either. There would need to be a tune in between each step except maybe the headers. I am trying to only need to get a tune one time since they are somewhat expensive.

well def. get headers first please...or do it all at one time :)

As of right now its my daily so that will need to change as well. I need to get rid of my bike as soon as HotRod is done with it. He is supposed to be turning it into a rigid frame but I know his work load at school is taking its toll on him.

Word of advice. If you are changing heads and lifters make sure what the manufacture suggested preload is for the lifters you buy!!! This will effect what length pushrod you will need. Example, Comp OEM lifters require .020-.030 preload and they do not recomend that you go outside that range so the standard +.100, +.050, STD, -.050, -.100 length sets might not work. Also with bigger lift cams comes more side loading with stocker rockers and worn valve guides. If you're going to do it do it right and get roller rockers.

I thought the preload was less than that on the comps and there is no need to change the stock rockers on a build like that. I believe the ls7s are in the .060 preload range.

Comp Cams custom grind#LS1-3727R/3730R
Comp Cams 7.400 Pushrods
Qtp Long tubes w/o air or egr
Patriot Valvesprings PAR-8401
GM C5R lifters 12499225
GM MLS gaskets 12589226
GM C5R Oil Pump 12586665
GM Balancer Bolt 12557840
Texas Speed 5.3 Stage 2.5 Heads
Tune by your favorite tuner
Enjoy your 475 rwhp

If you are incapable of completing these tasks, let me know.

Comp Cams custom grind#LS1-3727R/3730R
Comp Cams 7.400 Pushrods
Qtp Long tubes w/o air or egr
Patriot Valvesprings PAR-8401
GM C5R lifters 12499225
GM MLS gaskets 12589226
GM C5R Oil Pump 12586665
GM Balancer Bolt 12557840
Texas Speed 5.3 Stage 2.5 Heads
Tune by your favorite tuner
Enjoy your 475 rwhp

If you are incapable of completing these tasks, let me know.

^^^ lol he is trying to make it out to be like you are buying some badass race shit with his c5r talk.
the c5r lifters are the ls7 lifters which are the stock replacement for the ls1s
the c5r oil pump is a ls6 pump also the stock replacement ls1 pump
but those are the parts you need and add a ls2 timming chain to that list.

i have some 5.3 heads i could sell you for $180 then have them ported and valvejob. Also a used ls2 timming chain, 7.4 pushrods possibly depending on what my motor ends up needing. and if you really wanna get cheap to try to save a buck some used prc dual springs and ls6 pump with 10k miles on them.

Forget all the parts in my earlier post. I assumed you had an F-body. None of those parts will be any help on a GTO.




ps:C5R full race shit , raymond.

Forget all the parts in my earlier post. I assumed you had an F-body. None of those parts will be any help on a GTO.




ps:C5R full race shit , raymond.
he has a ls1 gto your parts list is ok

pps: no its not look up your part numbers lol

I thought maybe evil was mixing up C5R with CTS-VR lifters and such. I have those lifters in my LQ4 and the valvetrain is pretty darn quiet IMO. Now, if I could only get the damn exhaust fixed!

I thought maybe evil was mixing up C5R with CTS-VR lifters and such. I have those lifters in my LQ4 and the valvetrain is pretty darn quiet IMO. Now, if I could only get the damn exhaust fixed!

be carefull ctsv lifters have been bad news in quite a few builds, several guys loosing wheels into the bottom end, and lots of ls7s fucking up too. i just paid 500 for a set of morels bc i was afraid of those parts

be carefull ctsv lifters have been bad news in quite a few builds, several guys loosing wheels into the bottom end, and lots of ls7s fucking up too. i just paid 500 for a set of morels bc i was afraid of those parts
Now you're just bragging, dick...haha

Now you're just bragging, dick...haha

o trust me i would have much rather been bragging i paid 250 for ctsvs or 130 for ls7s, it was addes cost i didnt plan for :mad2:

be carefull ctsv lifters have been bad news in quite a few builds, several guys loosing wheels into the bottom end, and lots of ls7s fucking up too. i just paid 500 for a set of morels bc i was afraid of those parts

I've heard lol, after I bought these. I've been knocking on wood since I put em in

how the hell did I miss this lsx battle?

anyways. Is it a ls1 gto or ls2?

really dont matter on cam choice. DO NOT RUN A TREX without fly cut. MS4,ms3,g5x3 etc etc all will have the proper clearance for a stock motor.

if its a ls2 I would pick out a megadeath cam. it lacks just a few on PTV with about .075 on the intake, but lots of people have ran them with ZERO problems.... if its your DD, I wouldn't choose this cam.

You need headers first thing, choose your cam, pushrods, new timing chain, you can use the stock oil pump, stock lifters are fine too, valve spring kit(patriot gold kit works fine for these type of apps) use the stock rocker arms(I have stock rockers on my 6.0L and I spin it to 7800 rpm all the time) stock intake will work fine also. with any big cams you will need some bigger injectors(might as well get 42's from racetronix, flow match!)

all the big cams will make good power. I personally dont think you can "over cam" an ls1. The heads flow well enough stock not to make a difference. Just the big cam will want to rev a little higher. shifting 6800 on a stock 04 ls1 or ls2 bottom would not worry me one bit. set the rev limit to 7k.

as with more power, your clutch will fail. you will need a Tick master cylinder, and new slave, clutch kit. And prolly a different shifter(stock gto lacks)

Morel's > all lifters.

anything else?

I want an LS1 :(

put one in the wagon

put one in the wagon

:devil:

Just waiting for some taxes to buy my beater ;)

If i can make sense of the cost.....ya never know....I would do a nast LT1, but we both know how long that shit takes.....I may never get to drive it again :lol:

put one in the wagon

+1 That would be badass!

hahaha

:devil:

Just waiting for some taxes to buy my beater ;)

....I would do a nasty LT1

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=731238

or you could buy this 1040 rwhp setup on low boost
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=435446

how the hell did I miss this lsx battle?

anyways. Is it a ls1 gto or ls2?

really dont matter on cam choice. DO NOT RUN A TREX without fly cut. MS4,ms3,g5x3 etc etc all will have the proper clearance for a stock motor.

if its a ls2 I would pick out a megadeath cam. it lacks just a few on PTV with about .075 on the intake, but lots of people have ran them with ZERO problems.... if its your DD, I wouldn't choose this cam.

You need headers first thing, choose your cam, pushrods, new timing chain, you can use the stock oil pump, stock lifters are fine too, valve spring kit(patriot gold kit works fine for these type of apps) use the stock rocker arms(I have stock rockers on my 6.0L and I spin it to 7800 rpm all the time) stock intake will work fine also. with any big cams you will need some bigger injectors(might as well get 42's from racetronix, flow match!)

all the big cams will make good power. I personally dont think you can "over cam" an ls1. The heads flow well enough stock not to make a difference. Just the big cam will want to rev a little higher. shifting 6800 on a stock 04 ls1 or ls2 bottom would not worry me one bit. set the rev limit to 7k.

as with more power, your clutch will fail. you will need a Tick master cylinder, and new slave, clutch kit. And prolly a different shifter(stock gto lacks)

Morel's > all lifters.

anything else?


had one in my ls2 gto and had livernois ported stage 2 243 castings with fuill exhaust, cai, and udp and only put down 423 threw a m6 at cincy speed dyno. tracey told me that a reverse split cam is not a good idea for a lsx based car.

had one in my ls2 gto and had livernois ported stage 2 243 castings with fuill exhaust, cai, and udp and only put down 423 threw a m6 at cincy speed dyno. tracey told me that a reverse split cam is not a good idea for a lsx based car.

???????


That makes ZERO sense. Those are way low numbers, and plenty of people have made good numbers with it.....

???????


That makes ZERO sense. Those are way low numbers, and plenty of people have made good numbers with it.....

it makes plenty sense I put down 423 rwhp with the setup. there is a few people that run it but most of them are just cam only cars. If I were to do it agian I would just go with a g5x3 or a torquer cam. big cams are overated just like the mdc. trust me I know to many people who said the same thing about the mdc.

it makes plenty sense I put down 423 rwhp with the setup. there is a few people that run it but most of them are just cam only cars. If I were to do it agian I would just go with a g5x3 or a torquer cam. big cams are overated just like the mdc. trust me I know to many people who said the same thing about the mdc.

dude that makes NO sense. I put down 412 cam only ls1 through a 4.10 geared 12 bolt with a MS4. your going to tell me that your 6.0L, ported heads, megadeath cam only put down 420's? something with your setup was off... GTO guys make 440's CAM ONLY!

and on a LS series motor you want some split between the intake and exhaust. On the intake you want a little less duration, more lift, but on the exhaust you want more duration and just a bit less lift. Reason being is the intake flows better, so you keep that valve open just a little shorter time, but the intake port will flow better numbers at more lift. but on the exhaust side, it doesn't flow as well at larger lift numbers, so you want more duration to get the shit out....

Its pretty simple to understand. and on a L92 headed motor, you want even more split between duration and lift. my cam is a 242 246 .658/.615 on a 108lsa. prolly could have gone even more split in duration and picked up a few. but I didnt feel like ordering another cam to do it. so we went with this. and it works.

dude that makes NO sense. I put down 412 cam only ls1 through a 4.10 geared 12 bolt with a MS4. your going to tell me that your 6.0L, ported heads, megadeath cam only put down 420's? something with your setup was off... GTO guys make 440's CAM ONLY!

and on a LS series motor you want some split between the intake and exhaust. On the intake you want a little less duration, more lift, but on the exhaust you want more duration and just a bit less lift. Reason being is the intake flows better, so you keep that valve open just a little shorter time, but the intake port will flow better numbers at more lift. but on the exhaust side, it doesn't flow as well at larger lift numbers, so you want more duration to get the shit out....

Its pretty simple to understand. and on a L92 headed motor, you want even more split between duration and lift. my cam is a 242 246 .658/.615 on a 108lsa. prolly could have gone even more split in duration and picked up a few. but I didnt feel like ordering another cam to do it. so we went with this. and it works.


I don't know much about Creech's old GTO (rode in it a few times), but I'd imagine it was very streetable. Probably a milder cam than the ones you're referring to.

And whoever said you need to run a 4.10+ gear with a big cam needs a pat on the back. Take it from me...I dd mine year round and it's not fun off the line with 3.42's. I deal with it, but when I get the money for the entire rear end I'm definitely going with a 4.30/4.56 gear.

Nm, apparently I missed the MDC part lol, but I don't know shit about that cam or how aggressive it is anyways...carry on.

dude that makes NO sense. I put down 412 cam only ls1 through a 4.10 geared 12 bolt with a MS4. your going to tell me that your 6.0L, ported heads, megadeath cam only put down 420's? something with your setup was off... GTO guys make 440's CAM ONLY!

and on a LS series motor you want some split between the intake and exhaust. On the intake you want a little less duration, more lift, but on the exhaust you want more duration and just a bit less lift. Reason being is the intake flows better, so you keep that valve open just a little shorter time, but the intake port will flow better numbers at more lift. but on the exhaust side, it doesn't flow as well at larger lift numbers, so you want more duration to get the shit out....

Its pretty simple to understand. and on a L92 headed motor, you want even more split between duration and lift. my cam is a 242 246 .658/.615 on a 108lsa. prolly could have gone even more split in duration and picked up a few. but I didnt feel like ordering another cam to do it. so we went with this. and it works.

I wasnt to happy about the numbers. tracey tuned it. we could of prolly got 430 or 435 with a aggressive tune but I was spraying a nice shot to it so I was like whatever. the mdc cam really was a bad idea for a large cam. that is why everyone ran with the s cam from hpe.I didnt do any research on the cam just called and said I want a big nasty cam and they gave it to me. I was like the first few people to run it and know I see no threads about it anmore. hpe still offers the cam but no one who has a serious setup runs the cam.

and on the t-rex cam note. if you put it in a ls2 you will see more gains and less b/s about valves slapping the pistons.

I wasnt to happy about the numbers. tracey tuned it. we could of prolly got 430 or 435 with a aggressive tune but I was spraying a nice shot to it so I was like whatever. the mdc cam really was a bad idea for a large cam. that is why everyone ran with the s cam from hpe.I didnt do any research on the cam just called and said I want a big nasty cam and they gave it to me. I was like the first few people to run it and know I see no threads about it anmore. hpe still offers the cam but no one who has a serious setup runs the cam.

and on the t-rex cam note. if you put it in a ls2 you will see more gains and less b/s about valves slapping the pistons.

You cannot tune in hp. Your combination dictates overall power output and you picked the parts. All Tracey can do is make the air fuel and timing right and make the motor happy.

I thought the preload was less than that on the comps and there is no need to change the stock rockers on a build like that. I believe the ls7s are in the .060 preload range.
I think you're thinking of the Comp R's which is less than the Comp OEM's

You cannot tune in hp. Your combination dictates overall power output and you picked the parts. All Tracey can do is make the air fuel and timing right and make the motor happy.

no I didnt mean that tracey cant tune. just we thought it was going to make more power. the air fuel was right on. we could of did a more aggreassive tune with the timing but I was spraying a nice shot. once it was on nitrous it did well. anyways afer doing research on the cam. It was designed to make max power with stock heads. you were limited on head choices so I just stayed with the 243 casting. If I did it again I would use a milder cam and go nasty with the heads and intake.

no I didnt mean that tracey cant tune. just we thought it was going to make more power. the air fuel was right on. we could of did a more aggreassive tune with the timing but I was spraying a nice shot. once it was on nitrous it did well. anyways afer doing research on the cam. It was designed to make max power with stock heads. you were limited on head choices so I just stayed with the 243 casting. If I did it again I would use a milder cam and go nasty with the heads and intake.

Ya a 200 shot will have that effect on your timing.

Ya a 200 shot will have that effect on your timing.

If I still had the car I would have that nice little box that retards the timeing once you turn the switch on. Im sure you seen this ona few local cars. It allows you to run max tune n/a then once the box is armed it retards the timeing for the nitrous.

If I still had the car I would have that nice little box that retards the timeing once you turn the switch on. Im sure you seen this ona few local cars. It allows you to run max tune n/a then once the box is armed it retards the timeing for the nitrous.

Timing tuner ftw.

I helped a buddy put in a cam about two weekends ago, it was a lingenfelter comp cam. Was pretty easy to install, and has good torque and hp number for the price. Only took about four hours to put it in, sounds real nasty with some long tube cooks headers and dumps...
Good luck!